Jan
02
2008
0

How Much Exercise is Enough?

Exercise and Your Dog: How Much is Enough

The modern rally of ‘a tired dog is a good dog’ has been taken up by nearly everyone who has or works with dogs. However, excessive or inappropriate exercise could harm your dog, physically and/or mentally. In recent years, area vets have begun experiencing a large increase in ACL/PCL injuries among their clients – an injury that isn’t a normal occurrence in most dogs. After surgery (always required in a full tear), recovery is slow and arduous, and many dogs develop painful arthritis in the affected knee. As these injuries are happening more frequently in pet dogs (rather than canine athletes), vets believe this increase may be due to inappropriate forms of exercise and improper conditioning of these dogs.

What kind of exercise is inappropriate for a dog? That depends on the breed of dog, its current level of physical conditioning, the weather/climate, and of course, the dog itself. For example, most Basset Hounds do NOT make great running partners, in ANY weather <VBG>! Yet, even a Nordic breed, developed for pulling a sled long distances, can be injured by running on concrete sidewalks (paw pad injuries), or even dirt/sand (joints injuries and heat exhaustion/dehydration) during our inconsistent New England weather if an owner doesn’t take the right precautions. Just like humans, dogs need careful conditioning when beginning a physical exercise program. However, a human can respond appropriately when they feel themselves ‘overdoing’ it – dogs depend on us to keep them safe and healthy during exercise, and we don’t always notice the subtle signals of physical stress in a dog.

Certain breeds need a good amount of physical exercise in order to be healthy – sporting breeds, such as Retrievers, benefit greatly from 2-3 hours daily of running and swimming. Hounds, while they may not need as intense physical activity, require ‘nose work’ as part of their exercise plan – an hour or two a day of physical walking plus nose work will go a long way in keeping a hound happy and behaviorally healthy. Among the toughest dogs to ‘tire’ are the working breeds – dogs that were bred to do a physically and mentally demanding job independently – these are the guarding breeds (Belgian Shepherds, Pyrenees, etc.), sled dogs (Siberians, Malamutes, Samoyed, etc.) and herding breeds (Australian Cattle Dogs and Shepherds, Border Collies, etc.). These groups demand mental exercise in amounts that equal or surpass their physical exercise needs – needless to say, unless an owner is prepared to give them enough stimulation, it can be tough to keep these dogs in a city situation.

How can you tell what kind of exercise is appropriate for your dog? Start by talking to the parent club for your specific breed to find out what kinds of activities are appropriate. Next, take your dog to the vet for a physical evaluation to make sure he’ll be able to take part in the exercise you’ve chosen. If your dog has hip dysplasia or other physical problem that limits his ability to exercise, swimming can be an excellent option for exercise. You can ask your vet to explain the signs of physical stress you need to look for in your dog, or you may want to take a Pet First Aid course. In the New England area, heat exhaustion is a common issue because dogs don’t really have an efficient body-cooling system. Puppies and older dogs have worse temperature regulating abilities than healthy adult dogs, and dogs with shorter faces have impaired heat tolerance, as do black dogs and long-haired breeds. Generally, the top temperature for exercising a dog is about 85° F. However, if the dog is young, old, black, long-haired, short-muzzled, or not in perfect health, 85° F could be too hot. This is especially true when the humidity is high, so plan your exercise carefully in order to ensure your dog’s safety. Once you’ve decided on the type of exercise and when you’ll be engaging in it, you’ll need to build your dog up gradually, just as if you were starting a new program yourself. Remember, though, that puppies who are still growing shouldn’t engage in any exercise or activity during which they have to keep moving for long periods of time – the best exercise for a growing pup is playing with other puppies or people, with frequent rest periods. Plus, this type of play has the added bonus of exercising the pup’s brain, too.

Danish researcher and trainer Mogens Eliasen recently stated in his book, BrainWork for Smart Dogs (note: the term ’smart’ doesn’t mean a dog needs to be smart to do his ‘brainwork’, but that your dog will become smarter as a result of it) that while most people understand that a dog needs exercise, few comprehend that physical exercise by itself doesn’t always calm a dog down – in fact, it can cause what he terms a ‘build-up of mental energy’, resulting in just as many nuisance behaviors as a lack of physical exercise. People who train dogs to do complex behaviors such as those required by assistance tasks have noted how ‘tired’ the dogs seem after even a short training session.

So, does this mean you can get by with ‘mental exercise’ and forgo physical exercise entirely? NO – it means that a dog needs BOTH to be physically and emotionally healthy. When it comes to physical exercise, your dog will benefit greatly from at least two walks daily, of between 45 minutes-2 hours at a time, on or off leash (in a safe area). But the GOOD news for city-dwellers is that when the weather is bad and you can’t get out, you can STILL give your dog quality exercise that will help condition both his body and his brain.

How? Well, you can start with fetch and retrieve, if your dog enjoys this game (many retrievers will play for hours), but retrieve by itself is a physical-energy burner only. A better choice is ‘Find It!’ with a toy or other object – this will get your dog’s brain working, and kick in some of his natural prey instincts in the bargain. A great physical energy burner is ‘Tug of War’. No, it doesn’t make dogs more aggressive – just the opposite, in fact. Tug games, when played using easily-understandable, consistent rules, are a huge energy burner and also serve to increase the human-dog bond. What kind of rules? You should always use a designated ‘tug toy’, first of all, and your dog should know the ‘drop’ or ‘give’ cue, as well as a ‘take’ cue. ‘Take’ will be used as an invitation to play tug. If you see the dog becoming too aroused by tug, take an ‘obedience’ break – give a happy verbal announcement such as “Break-time!” and run your dog through a few of his known behaviors, such as sit, down, paw,etc. Then continue playing Tug (which becomes the ‘reward’ for performing his obedience tasks).

Another physical and mental game that dogs enjoy immensely is ‘Hide and Seek’ – this game is also a great way to work on recall skills. Place your dog in sit or down, give a ‘wait’ cue then leave the room and hide. Now, call your dog in a really excited way, so that he can come and find you. If you want, you can also give him a treat when he finds you, but most dogs are ecstatically happy to find you for praise and affection rewards, as well.

Trick training, using shaping methods really works to burn mental energy. Train your dog to ‘touch’ objects that you point to using his nose or his paw – begin by rewarding him for touching his nose to your hand, then adding the cue ‘nose’ or ‘touch’. Then, use that behavior as a stepping stone to other tricks such as closing doors, picking up toys or laundry, bringing you a magazine or newspaper, and ringing a bell. A great starter game that is used by new clicker trainers is ‘101 Things to Do With a Box’: (http://www.clickertraining.com/training/clicker_basics/index.htm?loaditem=101_w_a_box&itemnumber=8 ). This game encourages your dog to try new things when previous behaviors aren’t working – a great way to get your dog thinking!

You don’t need to have an ‘organized’ activity in order to get appropriate exercise for your dog – there are plenty of ways to keep him mentally and physically healthy. But, no matter how you choose to exercise your dog, remember to do so safely and in a way that will be fun for BOTH of you.

Jan
02
2008
1

How to Tell if a Dog Breeder is Responsible and Reputable

How to Tell if a Dog Breeder is Responsible and Reputable
copyright © 2007 Jo Jacques

You’ve decided to get a puppy, and have started contacting breeders – how do you tell if breeder is really good, or someone looking to make some money (or worse yet, a puppy mill in training)? With so many breeds and so many breeders, how do you choose?

It can be difficult, but not impossible, to find the perfect breeder – they’re out there! However, they’re usually the ones who advertise the least, so you do have to look a little harder. Plus, you need to do your homework – once you have researched various breeds to discover the best one for you and your family, you will need to ask some important questions when you start interviewing breeders.

Interviewing?? Yes, interviewing – this is a pretty big decision, one that will be with you for the next 10-15 years or more. You’ll want to be sure that you get a physically and behaviorally healthy pup, and the breeder’s practices have a HUGE influence on the way the pups will develop. Poor breeding practices can result in physical and behavioral conditions that could cost you thousands of dollars in vet’s bills as the dog ages, or cause the early demise of your beloved pet.

So what do you need to look for when checking out breeders? Here’s a list of things that the very best breeders do to ensure a healthy, happy litter of pups – and why they’re important to YOU.

A great breeder:

  • Genetically tests both the stud and dam before breeding, and gladly shares the results of ALL testing with potential purchasers
  • Researches the full pedigrees of both stud and dam, and does NOT breed if there’s a high probability of health or behavior issues
  • Does not breed a dog before the age of 2 or 3 years – there are many issues that do not show up until adolescence or later
  • Does not breed any dog more than once every 2 or 3 years – it’s far too much stress, physically, on the mother and while rare, studies are starting to show issues with males as well
  • Doesn’t have more than two litters on the ground at any given time – it’s difficult to properly socialize too many puppies at once
  • Encourages you (and your family) to visit your pup at least weekly before the pup goes home with you
  • Doesn’t let the pups leave the dam/litter before the age of 10-12 weeks – research by Scott and Fuller on the developmental stages of puppies proved that, while the period around 7-8 weeks is the best time for a pup to get used to humans, it’s not the best time to leave the litter. Between 7-12 weeks is when a puppy is learning two VERY important things: how to communicate with other dogs and bite inhibition!
  • Follows the “Puppy’s Rule of 12’s”when preparing pups for their new homes : http://www.uvhs.org/behavioral_docs/the_puppys_rules_of_twelve.pdf
  • Insists on contract with the following conditions: spay/neuter on pet quality or prior breeding approval for show/field/work quality; pup/dog’s return to breeder if, at ANY time in the dog’s life, you can no longer care for it; health guarantee (usually part of return clause)
  • Offers lifetime guidance and support for as long as you own the dog
  • Is a member and follows the Code of Ethics of the parent (main) breed club
  • Registers the litters with the AKC, CKC (Canadian, NOT Continental!) or UKC (United, NOT Universal!), WCAC or ARBA as well as major Health Registries (eyes, hips, etc)
  • Shows, trials, or otherwise titles their dogs (this shows an investment in bettering the breed)
  • Asks YOU for references, including a veterinarian
  • Finds out as much about you, your family, your living situation and your intentions for the pup as possible – will NOT sell to ‘just anyone’
  • NEVER sells their pups to a pet store or outlet

Wait – you aren’t done yet! There are some very important things to check when you go to visit the puppies:

  • Are the puppies kept indoors with the family, or out in a kennel, garage or shed?
  • Ask to see where the pups are kept – is it clean and comfortable, with appropriate (and enough!) toys for the pups? If their area is littered with urine/feces, you may be facing problems with parasites or worse; as well, you don’t want them to be housed in stacked crates, for the same reason
  • Meet the Parents! If possible, meet both, but definitely ask to meet Mom. A LOT of behavior issues are passed from the mother’s side – both genetically AND emotionally. Is Mom calm, and friendly? Is she well-cared for, with healthy-looking fur, eyes, skin and teeth?
  • Are the adults indoor or outdoor dogs? Ask to see their living area, if outdoors, and check for cleanliness, temperament, etc.

Seems like a lot to look for, doesn’t it? Maybe not, when you think how important this new addition will become to your family!

One final note:

While these new ‘designer breeds’ are wicked cute, and have really cute names, too – they aren’t necessarily any healthier than a very carefully bred pure-breed dog, or for that matter, any random-bred dog, either. And, they aren’t REALLY a breed – they are TWO breeds that someone decided to ‘mix’ in order to sell. As such, their genetic health is as uncertain as any mixed-breed dog you can find at your local shelter – probably more so, because they only exist for the ‘quick buck’. So, before you shell out thousands of dollars for the latest ‘designer dog’, remember this: the same mix is probably languishing in a shelter somewhere, and will be put down if no one adopts it. Wouldn’t you rather save a life (as well as a thousand dollars)?

Written by Jo in: Articles and Stories | Tags:

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