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Invisible Fences – Good or Bad? | Jo Jacques

We have several small dogs, they are used to fencing in our large, great yard. We will soon be moving to a new place, same town, but will want to be investigating Invisible Fencing.

Our dog is not with a puppy but 4 years old, so we are curious how older dogs can adapt to this. How long does it take for the dogs to become familiar, and how trustworthy is it.
Any info you have is useful as we do our research to consider this. Our dogs have had free run of their large fenced yard.

thanks,
Invisible Reader of DogBoston

Hi Invisible,
You have hit on a subject I’ve done a LOT of research on, as I’ve had many clients who’ve used these.

It is very popular right now, especially with the large subdivisions that have gone up — mostly because it’s relatively inexpensive. While it does have its good points — it doesn’t detract from your property, it’s inexpensive for large areas, and you don’t need to take your dog out on a leash.

But, the bad points FAR outweigh the good with these devices, I’m afraid.

Let’s look at the physical aspects first:

1) they don’t stop anything from coming INTO your yard to take or hurt your dogs.
2) they are susceptible to damage from electrical storms.
3) the collar units have a very high rate of malfunction, especially in this area of the country — malfunctions that can (and have) caused the collars to shock (yes, shock — these are SHOCK devices, remember) their dog repeatedly, causing physical (and emotional) damage to the dog.

That leads us into the behavioral problems with Invisible Fencing (IF) — an area that I see a LOT. Small dogs, especially, seem to have more issues, due to the fragile nature of their neurological systems — sometimes, the neurological damage is lasting to these little guys.

1) Since dogs take the entire environment into consideration when learning, they really don’t know where the pain is coming from so they see what’s around them. If joggers run past, or you have children in the yard, or if YOU’RE in the yard when they receive a shock, they are very likely to redirect to that stimulus and develop deep-seated fear responses that are incredibly difficult to remove. Even if no one is outside, I’ve worked with dogs that refuse to go out in their back yards to eliminate after receiving a shock.

2) You never know just how much shock the dog is getting at any given time. Not to mention, dogs — like people — are all different, and have different pain thresholds. The more sensitive a dog is to the shock, the more likely the dog is to develop redirected pain aggression — there are quite a few lawsuits (the IF folks don’t like to tell you about those) regarding previously wonderful family pets (like goldens) attacking the family’s kids when outdoors with the fencing. And, you can’t tell how sensitive your dog is before you use the collar, or even while you are using it in most cases — dogs, as a species, do not show pain as we think they would. In the wild, an animal showing pain is usually attacked as being weak.

3) When it comes to training with the fence, most dogs very first experience being leash-walked by a stranger is when the installer puts the leash on and takes your dog out for training. Research has shown that this training can have a serious lasting effect on a dog — a huge percentage of these dogs develop an intense fear of strangers while on leash, culminating in aggression issues, requiring hours upon hours of remediation and in a lot of cases, medication to keep the dog from attacking others while on walks. You end up with a HUGE emotional and legal liability.

There is plenty of scientific and legal research out there showing the dangers of these fences. As well, many well-known veterinary behaviorists, such as Dr. Karen Overall and Dr. Ian Dunbar, have come out against their use. These devices are banned in many countries as being inhumane; many feel they will be banned here, too. I, for one, won’t be upset if they are.

from Jo Jacques

Ever want to know what pro dog trainers read? How about knowing the best of what they read… The absolute BEST?

Here is the cream of the crop, what’s on every GOOD professional trainer’s bookshelf:

The Power of Positive Dog Training by Pat Miller
Clicker Training for Obedience by Morgan Spector
Family Friendly Dog Training by Dr, Patricia McConnell
The Dog Whisperer By PAUL OWENS (NOT Millan!!)
Positive Puppy Training Works! by Lt. Joel Walton
The Complete Idiots Guide to Positive Dog Training by Pamela Dennison
How to Teach a New Dog Old Tricks by Dr. Ian Dunbar
Outwitting Dogs by Terry Ryan
How to Behave so Your Dog Behaves by Dr. Sophia Yin
Don’t Shoot the Dog! by Karen Pryor
How Dogs Learn by Mary Burch and Jon Bailey
The Other End of the Leash by Dr. Patricia McConnell
EXCEL-erated Learning by Dr. Pamela Reid

As well, if you REALLY want to learn about canine cognition and learning, there’s Stephen Lindsey’s 3 volume set on Applied Behavior and Training (at a cost of 300-400 for the three), Domjan’s Principles of Learning and Behavior, Schwartz/Wasserman/Robbins’ Psychology of Learning and Behavior, and Sidman’s Coercion and it’s Fallout.

Jo, I just moved to the North shore and I am concerned about ticks & Lyme disease. As per my vet, Frontline & Lyme vaccine is the best option. Would you agree? Are there better options?

Hi,

That all depends, and mostly it depends on your dog’s immune system — it can do more harm than good in certain cases.

We DO line in a high-Lyme area (there’s a couple more tick-borne diseases as well). HOWEVER — there can be issues with the Lyme vaccine (as well as some others). You may want to research it a bit first, you can start here: http://www.itsfortheanimals.com/DODDS-CHG-VACC-PROTOCOLS.HTM

Did you move from a non-lyme tick area? If so, you may want to have the first round of Lyme vaccines then titer afterwards.

Frontline can be effective at keeping away ticks/cleas (believe it or not, the regular Frontline, NOT the Plus, is MORE effective). Again, depending on your own dog’s immune system, sometimes it can do more harm than good.

Do you feed a commercial food or home-prepare, or a combination? If you home-prepare or feed a combo, you can also add a bit of garlic powder (NOT garlic salt) and some rosemary to your dog’s food as you prepare it — this will help repel fleas and ticks quite well (in 5 years, we’ve had no fleas and only one tick for all 3 of our dogs). There are also quite a few natural recipes (herbs, essential oils, etc) that you can mix up and spray on your dog (and you!) to repel the little buggers.

No matter what you decide to do, remember to do DAILY, if not twice-daily, checks for Ticks and remove them quickly. If you remove them within the first 24 hours, you won’t have any issues with Lyme — after that, your chances will increase.

Jo Jacques CPDT, CPCT
WiggleBums! Dog-Friendly Training & Behavior
www.wigglebums.com

A new position statement released by the American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior (AVSAB) warns veterinary professionals about the use of punishment-based dog training techniques, which can cause serious behavioral problems.

“For the general public, punishment can be defined as the use of force/aversion, coercion, or physical corrections in order to change an animal’s behavior,” said Sophia Yin, DVM, MS, director of media relations for the AVSAB. The scientific definition of punishment, which is included in the position statement, is different, she added.

Although many books written in the last decade focus on positive reinforcement, a television show titled “The Dog Whisperer” (Cesar Millan) has stoked the popularity of the punishment-based method, which veterinary specialists call outdated and — at times — dangerous for pets and their owners. Short televised segments can mislead pet owners about the time investment required for effective behavior modifications, said Yin, who added that inconsistent reactions from pet owners can exacerbate anxiety in dogs, which may lead to aggression.

“When people focus just on stopping the problem, they are just trying to put fires out,” she said. “They are failing to address the fact that the reason the pet engages in these behaviors is that the behaviors have been inadvertently rewarded.”

By issuing the position statement, behavior specialists hope private practitioners will warn clients about punishment-based approaches and refer them to credentialed professionals who can address root causes for behavior problems and suggest effective solutions.
Instead of yelling at dogs, holding them down in an “alpha roll,” or using choke chains or pinch collars, Yin and the AVSAB suggest taking a holistic perspective to the issue. “A more appropriate approach is to determine how the pet is being rewarded for the bad behavior, remove that reward and control the environment, and reward a more appropriate behavior.”

While punishment-based approaches may seem to work — especially on half-hour televised and staged segments — they can cause long-term repercussions for pet and owner.

“…the techniques force the dog to mask the behavior while the dog becomes more anxious,” Yin said. As a result, “many dogs are likely to get worse/more aggressive in the future.”

The American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior (AVSAB) is a group of veterinarians and research professionals who share an interest in understanding behavior in animals. AVSAB is committed to improving the quality of life of all animals and strengthening the bond between animals and their owners.

Of all the common pet foods, which is the best? I am using Science Diet because my vet sells it, but I am open to change…

Well, that’s a loaded question. There are just as many answers as there are dogs who eat!

Depending on your particular dog’s breed, age, health issues, etc. there may be a number of different foods you may want to look at. However, one way to start is to educate yourself on what a dog’s nutrient needs are, and what really is in commercial dog food.

Excellent sources of information: The Whole Dog Journal reviews the best dog foods available once a year. As this magazine doesn’t take advertisements, they offer a totally unbiased view, based on nutritional needs. here’s their web site: http://www.whole-dog-journal.com/ — even if you are not a subscriber, you can purchase back issues or even single articles — check out their reviews; as well, they also tell you just what to look for in a quality food.

Another good site is the Dog Food Project: http://www.dogfoodproject.com/

You will find a lot of really good information there on nutritional needs; they also have ingredient listings of all of the available dog foods.

Generally, however, you want to look for a food with the least amount of additives and preservatives; one with real meat within the first two ingredients, and without corn. Dogs can’t metabolize corn well — manufacturers use it because it’s cheap and filling. However, it goes right through them, usually, and they can’t absorb any nutrients from it. That’s why you will notice that instructions on dog food with corn in it recommend feeding far more of it than dog foods without corn.

A higher quality food may cost more in the beginning, but your dog will eat a lot less of it, because it’s more biologically available to them.

Jo, We are having a baby and we are concerned about how our dogs (two beagles, one is 4, the other is 6) will act when the baby comes home. any thoughts on that? this has me losing sleep …. Amy, JP

Hi Amy!
Congratulations — both on your impending new arrival and your comittment to your dogs! Try not to lose too much sleep — you’ll be losing enough once the baby arrives!

One of my best friends and colleagues is an expert on babies and dogs, and she says that preparation is KEY to a successful homecoming and bonding experience — here are a few tips:

1. Review and practice obedience commands like sit, down and stay from various positions (in case you are playing on the floor with the baby)
2. Really work on socializing your dogs around babies and children, but look carefully for signs of stress
3. Start living by a ‘baby schedule’
4. Get the dogs comfortable around the baby furniture and teach them the behaviors you would like to see around the stroller, crib, swing, etc.
5. Get some baby lotion and put some on the baby’s equipment, toys, etc — then put the same lotion on the baby before you bring it home.
6. Have Dad bring home a blanket with the baby’s smell on it before you come home from the hospital.

For more great information, please visit my friend’s website: http://familypaws.com/dogsandstorks/

- Jo

Jo, my name is Andrea and I just started going to college here in Boston last fall. With the warm weather coming up, I was wondering about your advice on getting a dog. I would prefer a smaller, low-shedding breed that doesn’t bark (I live with roommates) and doesn’t need too much exercise (I am very busy). What are your thoughts?

Hi, and welcome to Boston!
College is a very exciting and very busy time, and it can be fun to share it with a dog. From what you’ve said, though, it might not be the best time for you.

Dogs have evolved along side of humans, and are very social animals (just like people!). They don’t like to be alone for long periods of time, and can become destructive when bored or lonely — the busier you are, the more destructive your dog may become.

Getting a dog is a lot like having a baby — your life will change drastically, and with your course load and busy life, you may not have enough time walk, train, and socialize a pup. Pets are a great stress reliever, though — have you though about other options, such as a cat or a house rabbit? Both are affectionate, easily litter trained, and wont’ get upset if you keep long hours.

- Jo

Jo: I’ve got my first apartment and my landlord allows pets both cats and dogs. My problem is that I can’t figure out the best breed for me. This is my situation, my apartment is pretty decent size and has a large front and back yard (no fence.) It’s located in a rural area and is on the top floor of my building. I’m a fairly active person, if I have a dog I can take for walks or a dog to just sit in my lap I’m pretty impartial. I would like a dog I can take places with me. I am also gone for 9 hours a day from 2 - 11. So I need a dog who is a minimal barker, can be unsupervised without tearing apart my apartment and who won’t feel couped up during the day. Maybe a breed that does well with cats so they can entertain each other while I’m at work. Can anyone make a recommendation on the breed of dog that may be best for me? I have no allergies, live alone with no children and want a dog around 24/7. Thanks so much!

Hi, Josh,

Well, it’s good that you posted such honest info about your lifestyle. I’m assuming that you would be looking to adopt an adult dog, not a pup? Would you be able to take time off of work or work a flexible schedule for a bit in order to properly socialize and train your dog?

Due to evolutionary behavioral and health factors, dog breeds are not all that okay with being alone for 9 hours a day. They are VERY social creatures, and they are a pack animal — happiest when when someone or another animal. Some dogs can adapt, but usually dogs that have been slowly acclimated to that length of time alone.

As well, there are no ‘breeds’ that are minimal barkers or less likely to be destructive. Both of those behaviors are traits that happen when a dog is under-exercised and/or under-socialized. The best dog in the world — who has never barked or chewed anything — can have days when it does both non-stop due to boredom, too little exercise and lonlieness. As well, there is no dog breed that ‘naturally’ does well with cats — successful multi-species households happen through the work of owners who carefully introduce and contition their pets to get along — and sometimes, even that doesn’t work.

If you’d really like a dog, might I suggest a Maine Coon Cat? They are large and VERY dog-like, while still retaining the self-sufficience that cats natually possess and dogs lack. Affectionate, clean, highly trainable, and remarkably low maintenance (their coat, although it looks like it might tangle a lot, remains fairly tangle-free because it’s staggered).

- Jo

Hi Jo,
I live in the city and have two big, generally well behaved, male dogs. I used to take long walks with them together every day until the younger one hit puberty. If they see another male, they naturally want to fight and are emboldened because they are in a “pack”. I have no problem pulling one male out of a fight, but two is a real juggling act.

I started to walk them separately, but this is almost as difficult as a dog fight! Neither one likes being left alone, and they make a very big deal out of it. Now the youngest has figured out that he can turn a doorknob with his teeth, so closing one in a room while the other is leashed up is not an option anymore.

I have just been letting them out into the back yard and not walking them very much anymore as a result. I feel guilty about it though, since I can see that they get bored, and know that they could really use more exercise.

I’d like for the one to behave and quietly wait his turn while I take the other one out. I am starting to feel like this is an impossible dream though. I sure would appreciate any good advice you have to offer as to how I can condition them to do this. Like I say, they are mostly well behaved, so I know that feeling left out must be very difficult for them
Kristal

–

Hi Kristal,

I’m a BIG believer in one-on-one quality time with each of my dogs — and it’s something I started when they were younger. I got them into the habit by training various behaviors with one dog at a time, when the others were either on the other side of the door or in a crate.

You can do the same thing now, and work your way toward the single dog walks.

Start slowly. Tether the dogs on opposite sides of the room and take turns working on behaviors with each in turn. If one gets all crazy, don’t start working with him until he’s quiet — this will reward the quiet behavior while waiting for you.

When they have no problem waiting while you work with the other one, try taking one in the other room to work for a few minutes while the other is tethered safely. Work only for a minute or so, then come back to reward the one left behind… then switch off. Slowly make the time that you are working with one or the other longer and longer. When they’re fine at working in this way, then take one outside the door, work for a minute or two then reward the one left behind, as above.When you get to the part where you take one dog outside, give the remaining dog a cookie or chewie when you leave with the other.

Depending on your dogs and how often you practice, you may find that within a week or two you’re able to take a short walk with each one separately… the first walks should be VERY short, just 5 or 10 minutes, and as before, increase the time very slowly…

Good luck!

Jo Jacques, CPDT, CPCT
WiggleBums!
Dog-Friendly Training and Behavior Consulting
http://www.wigglebums.com
http://www.trulydogfriendly.com
President, International Siberian Husky Club
http://www.casinstitute.com/
Ask Jo at dogBoston.com
IAABC# 023
APDT# 064427
IIACAB # 024
ABMA # 221012

Jo, we’re picking up a puppy this weekend!! , and we were looking for a listing of tips and items that we should buy before bringing him home.

Jo:

Congratulations!

Great things to have: a crate and crate pad; a kong and other safe chew toys like nylabones; a good healthy dog food and healthy training treats; a flat buckle collar and regular leash; an enzyme-removing cleaner like Nature’s Miracle or Foster/Smith Stain-away; food and water bowls (stainless steel is easiest to clean and safe — plastic can leach into food/water and cause allergic reactions and ceramic can break).

If this is your first puppy, or even the first puppy you’ve had in a long time, pick up a copy of The Urban Puppy Toolkit — one of the absolute BEST kits for new puppy owners I’ve ever seen! you can get one here, if the pet stores in your area doesn’t carry it:
http://www.petexpertise.com/WiggleBums

Another great book is Dr. Ian Dunbar’s Before You Get Your Puppy, which he has now made available for FREE on his Sirius training website: http://www.siriuspup.com/beforebook.html

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