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Problem Walking Two Dogs Separately

Published by in Articles and Stories on January 6th, 2008 | Comments Off

Hi Jo,
I live in the city and have two big, generally well behaved, male dogs. I used to take long walks with them together every day until the younger one hit puberty. If they see another male, they naturally want to fight and are emboldened because they are in a “pack”. I have no problem pulling one male out of a fight, but two is a real juggling act.

I started to walk them separately, but this is almost as difficult as a dog fight! Neither one likes being left alone, and they make a very big deal out of it. Now the youngest has figured out that he can turn a doorknob with his teeth, so closing one in a room while the other is leashed up is not an option anymore.

I have just been letting them out into the back yard and not walking them very much anymore as a result. I feel guilty about it though, since I can see that they get bored, and know that they could really use more exercise.

I’d like for the one to behave and quietly wait his turn while I take the other one out. I am starting to feel like this is an impossible dream though. I sure would appreciate any good advice you have to offer as to how I can condition them to do this. Like I say, they are mostly well behaved, so I know that feeling left out must be very difficult for them :(
Kristal

Hi Kristal,

I’m a BIG believer in one-on-one quality time with each of my dogs — and it’s something I started when they were younger. I got them into the habit by training various behaviors with one dog at a time, when the others were either on the other side of the door or in a crate.

You can do the same thing now, and work your way toward the single dog walks.

Start slowly. Tether the dogs on opposite sides of the room and take turns working on behaviors with each in turn. If one gets all crazy, don’t start working with him until he’s quiet — this will reward the quiet behavior while waiting for you.

When they have no problem waiting while you work with the other one, try taking one in the other room to work for a few minutes while the other is tethered safely. Work only for a minute or so, then come back to reward the one left behind… then switch off. Slowly make the time that you are working with one or the other longer and longer. When they’re fine at working in this way, then take one outside the door, work for a minute or two then reward the one left behind, as above.When you get to the part where you take one dog outside, give the remaining dog a cookie or chewie when you leave with the other.

Depending on your dogs and how often you practice, you may find that within a week or two you’re able to take a short walk with each one separately… the first walks should be VERY short, just 5 or 10 minutes, and as before, increase the time very slowly…

Good luck!

Jo Jacques, CPDT, CPCT
WiggleBums!
Dog-Friendly Training and Behavior Consulting

http://www.wigglebums.com

http://www.trulydogfriendly.com

President, International Siberian Husky Club

http://www.casinstitute.com/

Ask Jo at dogBoston.com
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How to Welcome a New Puppy

Published by in Articles and Stories on January 4th, 2008 | Comments Off

Jo, we’re picking up a puppy this weekend!! :) , and we were looking for a listing of tips and items that we should buy before bringing him home.

Jo:

Congratulations!

Great things to have: a crate and crate pad; a kong and other safe chew toys like nylabones; a good healthy dog food and healthy training treats; a flat buckle collar and regular leash; an enzyme-removing cleaner like Nature’s Miracle or Foster/Smith Stain-away; food and water bowls (stainless steel is easiest to clean and safe — plastic can leach into food/water and cause allergic reactions and ceramic can break).

If this is your first puppy, or even the first puppy you’ve had in a long time, pick up a copy of The Urban Puppy Toolkit — one of the absolute BEST kits for new puppy owners I’ve ever seen! you can get one here, if the pet stores in your area doesn’t carry it:

http://www.petexpertise.com/WiggleBums

Another great book is Dr. Ian Dunbar’s Before You Get Your Puppy, which he has now made available for FREE on his Sirius training website: http://www.siriuspup.com/beforebook.html

More “Ask Jo” articles

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Dogs and Society: Doggie GPS?

[Brian Henderson] Lately, I’ve been surprised to find the number of Dog GPS (global positioning satellite) receivers on the market. The marketing pitch is that you can strap on these devices to your dog, and if and when the dog gets lost, you can go to your computer and track the dog like a detective with a homing device secretly embedded on the suspect.

Now, I’m all for technology advances and things which can save me time and make me more efficient. But personally, with these doggie GPS devices, I cannot see the point.

Major drawback #1:

If my dog is off leash, I am usually nearby and in a fenced-in area. My dogs listen to me, but… one of my dogs has a serious squirrel problem, so I never take them to a place where I think they might get extremely tempted to run off a random direction.

Major drawback #2:

Let’s say my dog DOES escape. Where am I going? I am going to run like a madman through the neighborhood until I find my dog. I am going to yell things like “Cheese!” and “Food!” and of course the dog’s name (Emma or Tula)

Major drawback #3:

Again, let’s say the dog escapes, and my panicked run around the neighborhood ends up fruitless. Now, if the dog is sporting one of these collars I could run to my computer and start tracking. But hopefully the batteries are fully-charged. Most of them run for about 5 days max and unless you charged it on the day of the escape (how would you be able to plan that?), then you probably have far less than 5 days on battery time.

On the other side, I guess there are a few legitimate reasons for the product though.

  1. If you are traveling, and maybe you want to micro-manage your dog’s movement from afar. Watch him move from the couch to the kitchen. Doesn’t seem like a smart way to spend your money.
  2. Maybe you use an electronic fence and aren’t sure your dog won’t bust through “the force field.” But then, why even have an electronic fence if you aren’t sure it will work?
  3. Hunting dogs. Maybe there’s a case where a dog can be far from owner and you want to know where your dog tracked a bird. Doesn’t apply to me – I’m not even sure I’d know how to acquire a gun nor do I hunt.
  4. The most interesting reasons to use a device like this, is to monitor other family members. Maybe kids. I could see nervous parents dropping a doggie GPS in the car to see where their kids are hanging out. Sneaky but parents watch their kids internet behavior too, don’t they?

In Summary, Dog GPS is a Bad Idea

It’s a bad idea, and it’s sad to see some local companies fell into the trap of making unnecessary products for “dog safety.” Owners should make sure their dogs are secure before letting them run off-leash. If your backyard is fenced-in and has a gate, make sure the gate is latched and locked. For extra precaution, get the microchip embedded in your dog because there have been stories of long-lost dog returned to owners after microchip positive identification.

Read more Feature Stories Here.



Story: Finding Joy at Mount Misery

Published by in Articles and Stories on January 2nd, 2008 | Comments Off

By Rochelle O’Neal Thorpe

Marching through the snow and hearing it crunch beneath my feet as I trailed through a path of white birch and pine trees trying to keep up with my toddler son as he chases Juno through the woods, gave me such a satisfying feeling that warms my heart.

This twosome have proven to me that a “Dog is not only a man’s best friend,” but that my best friend’s dog can be a boy’s best friend too.

Two years ago when I was widowed and left with two teens and a toddler to raise home life became a bit saddened with the absence of my husband.

A good friend of twenty years happened to be living only a few blocks away has a wonderful dog with a great puppy personality that soon brought lots of love into our lives. Whenever we visited her, her dog Juno bounces with joy at the sight of Gabe – and she is ready for play.

Juno

Gabe, my toddler was only sixteen months old when his dad passed away in late January 2006 and having a new doggy to chase the winter blues away really has made a difference.

When the weather warmed Gabe and I joined my friend Nicola for long walks along the Minute Man Trail. Gabe was steady enough on his feet to show Juno the way to Spy Pond, where he would feed Mr. Ducky, a dark brown Mallard who loved eating bread crumbs right out of his hands.

After spending the summer walking along Spy Pond, Juno and Nicola moved to Harvard Square and we no longer took those occasional strolls from Cambridge to Arlington along Minute Man Trail.

What was a mother to do when Gabe would ask to take Juno for a walk? Well, get creative that’s what.

Instead of missing Juno, I invited Nicola and Juno to join us on a day trip. We loaded the car with snacks and lunches and took the twenty minute drive up Route 2 to Lincoln, and although dogs are not allowed on Walden Pond, there is a great hiking park with a wooded path for pets and owners to enjoy, ironically it’s called “Mount Misery,” and it became the perfect place to bring joy to a dog and his boy.

At age three keeping Gabe on the path has become rather entertaining now that he can throw a tennis ball or a stick to Juno as we hike along the narrow trails with our backpacked lunches. Somehow the balls haven’t yet found their way into the stream that follows the path.

The path opens into a natural cathedral with birch, pine and oak trees standing tall like gigantic organ pipes to the sky. During the fall the autumn trees and moss covered logs create a great scene for picnicking. We always managed to find a fallen log to sit on to enjoy our lunches and we enjoy taking a break for water as well.

This year we managed to trek out even in the snow and as city dwellers we discovered the park is frequented year round. In fact, the snow covered hills and bare trees were just as breathtaking as the park in full bloom during the summer months.

Although these excursions gave me ample time to catch up with an old friend, the bond that developed between Juno and Gabe became stronger as well.

From the moment Gabe is fastened in his car seat and we stop to pick up Nicola and Juno, both boy and dog become joyful and bright eyed looking forward to their time together exploring the woods and playing catch.

When asked by passersby the name of his dog, Gabe proudly says “Juno.”

Nicola smiles and doesn’t intervene to correct him, or to say that Juno is really her Dog; she seems to understand the importance Gabe’s answer holds.

To see Juno become my Boy’s best friend brought unexpected joy into my life and I am so grateful that my best friend share’s her dog with us.

In learning that a dog can be a boy’s best friend, I have realized the value of my best friend’s generous heart as well.

So if you’re feeling blue or need a day excursion, try a picnic trip to “Mount Misery” or try sharing your dog with someone blue, in either case you’re sure to learn something new.

Mount Misery is located on Route 117 West of Route 2, on the West Concord and Lincoln towlines.This is Rochelle O’Neal Thorpe’s first article for DogBoston. You can read more about her on her website at http://www.rochelleonealthorpe.com/

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How Much Exercise is Enough?

Published by in Articles and Stories on January 2nd, 2008 | Comments Off

Exercise and Your Dog: How Much is Enough

The modern rally of ‘a tired dog is a good dog’ has been taken up by nearly everyone who has or works with dogs. However, excessive or inappropriate exercise could harm your dog, physically and/or mentally. In recent years, area vets have begun experiencing a large increase in ACL/PCL injuries among their clients – an injury that isn’t a normal occurrence in most dogs. After surgery (always required in a full tear), recovery is slow and arduous, and many dogs develop painful arthritis in the affected knee. As these injuries are happening more frequently in pet dogs (rather than canine athletes), vets believe this increase may be due to inappropriate forms of exercise and improper conditioning of these dogs.

What kind of exercise is inappropriate for a dog? That depends on the breed of dog, its current level of physical conditioning, the weather/climate, and of course, the dog itself. For example, most Basset Hounds do NOT make great running partners, in ANY weather <VBG>! Yet, even a Nordic breed, developed for pulling a sled long distances, can be injured by running on concrete sidewalks (paw pad injuries), or even dirt/sand (joints injuries and heat exhaustion/dehydration) during our inconsistent New England weather if an owner doesn’t take the right precautions. Just like humans, dogs need careful conditioning when beginning a physical exercise program. However, a human can respond appropriately when they feel themselves ‘overdoing’ it – dogs depend on us to keep them safe and healthy during exercise, and we don’t always notice the subtle signals of physical stress in a dog.

Certain breeds need a good amount of physical exercise in order to be healthy – sporting breeds, such as Retrievers, benefit greatly from 2-3 hours daily of running and swimming. Hounds, while they may not need as intense physical activity, require ‘nose work’ as part of their exercise plan – an hour or two a day of physical walking plus nose work will go a long way in keeping a hound happy and behaviorally healthy. Among the toughest dogs to ‘tire’ are the working breeds – dogs that were bred to do a physically and mentally demanding job independently – these are the guarding breeds (Belgian Shepherds, Pyrenees, etc.), sled dogs (Siberians, Malamutes, Samoyed, etc.) and herding breeds (Australian Cattle Dogs and Shepherds, Border Collies, etc.). These groups demand mental exercise in amounts that equal or surpass their physical exercise needs – needless to say, unless an owner is prepared to give them enough stimulation, it can be tough to keep these dogs in a city situation.

How can you tell what kind of exercise is appropriate for your dog? Start by talking to the parent club for your specific breed to find out what kinds of activities are appropriate. Next, take your dog to the vet for a physical evaluation to make sure he’ll be able to take part in the exercise you’ve chosen. If your dog has hip dysplasia or other physical problem that limits his ability to exercise, swimming can be an excellent option for exercise. You can ask your vet to explain the signs of physical stress you need to look for in your dog, or you may want to take a Pet First Aid course. In the New England area, heat exhaustion is a common issue because dogs don’t really have an efficient body-cooling system. Puppies and older dogs have worse temperature regulating abilities than healthy adult dogs, and dogs with shorter faces have impaired heat tolerance, as do black dogs and long-haired breeds. Generally, the top temperature for exercising a dog is about 85° F. However, if the dog is young, old, black, long-haired, short-muzzled, or not in perfect health, 85° F could be too hot. This is especially true when the humidity is high, so plan your exercise carefully in order to ensure your dog’s safety. Once you’ve decided on the type of exercise and when you’ll be engaging in it, you’ll need to build your dog up gradually, just as if you were starting a new program yourself. Remember, though, that puppies who are still growing shouldn’t engage in any exercise or activity during which they have to keep moving for long periods of time – the best exercise for a growing pup is playing with other puppies or people, with frequent rest periods. Plus, this type of play has the added bonus of exercising the pup’s brain, too.

Danish researcher and trainer Mogens Eliasen recently stated in his book, BrainWork for Smart Dogs (note: the term ‘smart’ doesn’t mean a dog needs to be smart to do his ‘brainwork’, but that your dog will become smarter as a result of it) that while most people understand that a dog needs exercise, few comprehend that physical exercise by itself doesn’t always calm a dog down – in fact, it can cause what he terms a ‘build-up of mental energy’, resulting in just as many nuisance behaviors as a lack of physical exercise. People who train dogs to do complex behaviors such as those required by assistance tasks have noted how ‘tired’ the dogs seem after even a short training session.

So, does this mean you can get by with ‘mental exercise’ and forgo physical exercise entirely? NO – it means that a dog needs BOTH to be physically and emotionally healthy. When it comes to physical exercise, your dog will benefit greatly from at least two walks daily, of between 45 minutes-2 hours at a time, on or off leash (in a safe area). But the GOOD news for city-dwellers is that when the weather is bad and you can’t get out, you can STILL give your dog quality exercise that will help condition both his body and his brain.

How? Well, you can start with fetch and retrieve, if your dog enjoys this game (many retrievers will play for hours), but retrieve by itself is a physical-energy burner only. A better choice is ‘Find It!’ with a toy or other object – this will get your dog’s brain working, and kick in some of his natural prey instincts in the bargain. A great physical energy burner is ‘Tug of War’. No, it doesn’t make dogs more aggressive – just the opposite, in fact. Tug games, when played using easily-understandable, consistent rules, are a huge energy burner and also serve to increase the human-dog bond. What kind of rules? You should always use a designated ‘tug toy’, first of all, and your dog should know the ‘drop’ or ‘give’ cue, as well as a ‘take’ cue. ‘Take’ will be used as an invitation to play tug. If you see the dog becoming too aroused by tug, take an ‘obedience’ break – give a happy verbal announcement such as “Break-time!” and run your dog through a few of his known behaviors, such as sit, down, paw,etc. Then continue playing Tug (which becomes the ‘reward’ for performing his obedience tasks).

Another physical and mental game that dogs enjoy immensely is ‘Hide and Seek’ – this game is also a great way to work on recall skills. Place your dog in sit or down, give a ‘wait’ cue then leave the room and hide. Now, call your dog in a really excited way, so that he can come and find you. If you want, you can also give him a treat when he finds you, but most dogs are ecstatically happy to find you for praise and affection rewards, as well.

Trick training, using shaping methods really works to burn mental energy. Train your dog to ‘touch’ objects that you point to using his nose or his paw – begin by rewarding him for touching his nose to your hand, then adding the cue ‘nose’ or ‘touch’. Then, use that behavior as a stepping stone to other tricks such as closing doors, picking up toys or laundry, bringing you a magazine or newspaper, and ringing a bell. A great starter game that is used by new clicker trainers is ’101 Things to Do With a Box’: (http://www.clickertraining.com/training/clicker_basics/index.htm?loaditem=101_w_a_box&itemnumber=8 ). This game encourages your dog to try new things when previous behaviors aren’t working – a great way to get your dog thinking!

You don’t need to have an ‘organized’ activity in order to get appropriate exercise for your dog – there are plenty of ways to keep him mentally and physically healthy. But, no matter how you choose to exercise your dog, remember to do so safely and in a way that will be fun for BOTH of you.



8 Tips for Successful House Training

Published by in Articles and Stories on January 2nd, 2008 | Comments Off

Help! My Dog Can’t Be House Trained! (or 8 Tips for Successful House-training)

copyright © 2007 Jo Jacques

As a behavior counselor and trainer, one of the most often heard complaints from pet owners concerns house-training. The stories I hear of the suggestions clients have gotten from others are sometimes amazing:

“The vet told me that my [insert breed name] is impossible to house-train, so I don’t expect it to happen.”

“My neighbor told me that if I keep the dog in the crate all the time, it won’t eliminate in the crate, but he still does!”

My favorite one: “He’s 5 months old now – he can last the whole day, right?” (WRONG!).

Depending on the age and physiology of a particular pup, house-training any breed can be accomplished within a week or two, barring any physical problems or behavioral issues stemming from previous training (it takes far more time to ‘un-train’ and then build new habits than to start from scratch!). However, both time and effort are needed in order to accomplish this, as well as an understanding of what an individual puppy/dog is capable of physically.

Owner understanding and compliance has a HUGE effect on the elimination habits their puppy/dog develops! For example, I always recommend that owners take at least a week – if not two – off from work (or work from home, if possible) when they bring their pup home in order to house-train and start bonding with their pup. This time also helps you to learn your pup’s individual personality and needs – both physically and emotionally.

The following are 8 tips for Successful House-training – barring retraining or physical issues, if these tips are followed you will have no problem house-training nearly any dog.

Develop a routine schedule for feeding and potty breaks – and stick to it, even on weekends and at night. Feeding on a regular schedule helps to regulate your dog’s system – and makes it easier for you to know when to take him out for a potty break, as well. Dogs, like children, just LOVE schedules!
Feed a high-quality food consistently – don’t change food intermittently. A high-quality diet usually means fewer and firmer bowel movements; less salt and preservatives in their food cuts down on water intake and urination.
Take the pup out on a leash for a potty break whenever he wakes up, after he eats or drinks, and after he’s been playing. As well, pups should be taken out once an hour, an older dog every two hours until he’s trained. Even if he doesn’t eliminate every time you take him out, try to stick to your schedule. Soon, you’ll be able to predict when he’ll need to go. As he gets older, you’ll be able to lengthen the time between breaks.
If you can’t watch him, use a crate or an X-pen. Or, tether him to your belt using a leash so that you’ll always know where he is and can feel when he starts to move away from you. Remember – puppies have very little bladders, and just as little control over them, so they shouldn’t be confined for more than a few hours at a time after the initial house-training schedule until they’re old enough to handle it. One rule of thumb for puppies is to take their age in months and add 1 – this will be the maximum number of hours he’d be able to hold his bladder. In the toy breeds, due to their smaller bladders and a slower maturation time, don’t add the extra hour. Older dogs have more physical control, and may be able to stay in a crate a little longer without eliminating.
When taking your pup or dog out for a potty break, be sure to reinforce him EVERY time he eliminates outside. Make a HUGE deal out of it – tell him what a wonderful dog he is while giving him lots of affection, petting AND a treat. Soon, he’ll come to associate eliminating outside with fun and treats – not a bad combination for a pup! Remember – any behavior that gets rewarded will get repeated!
When you take the dog out for a potty break, chant a particular phrase or word while waiting for him to eliminate. Have all family members who take him out to use the same phrase and to pace a little with him – movement begets movement! Some people use, “Let’s go!” or “Let’s do it!” in an excited voice. This will enable the pup to connect the phrase used with eliminating, and you’ll soon find him eliminating outside as soon as you say his special phrase.
If you manage to catch him eliminating in the house, interrupt it by picking him up and taking him outside – if he stops in mid-stream and finishes outside, heap on the praise. Be sure that you DO NOT SCOLD HIM or ‘rub his nose’ in it – he will not be able to connect eliminating in the house with the punishment, but he WILL connect punishment for elimination with YOU (if that happens, he may start hiding to eliminate OR will begin eliminating submissively whenever he sees YOU). Then quietly pick up the ‘deposit’ in the house, cleaning it with with an enzymatic cleanser specifically designed for that purpose (my personal favorites, in order of preference, are Foster & Smith’s Stain-Away® or Nature’s Miracle®). However, if you truly feel the need for punishment, take a rolled-up newspaper and hit yourself in the head with it repeatedly, while chanting, “I WILL pay more attention to my dog! I WILL pay more attention to my dog!”
ALWAYS remember to have FUN with your dog! The housebreaking phase won’t last long, but the impression you make on your dog during it will, so here’s your chance to make a positive impact in his life!



How to Tell if a Dog Breeder is Responsible and Reputable

How to Tell if a Dog Breeder is Responsible and Reputable
copyright © 2007 Jo Jacques

You’ve decided to get a puppy, and have started contacting breeders – how do you tell if breeder is really good, or someone looking to make some money (or worse yet, a puppy mill in training)? With so many breeds and so many breeders, how do you choose?

It can be difficult, but not impossible, to find the perfect breeder – they’re out there! However, they’re usually the ones who advertise the least, so you do have to look a little harder. Plus, you need to do your homework – once you have researched various breeds to discover the best one for you and your family, you will need to ask some important questions when you start interviewing breeders.

Interviewing?? Yes, interviewing – this is a pretty big decision, one that will be with you for the next 10-15 years or more. You’ll want to be sure that you get a physically and behaviorally healthy pup, and the breeder’s practices have a HUGE influence on the way the pups will develop. Poor breeding practices can result in physical and behavioral conditions that could cost you thousands of dollars in vet’s bills as the dog ages, or cause the early demise of your beloved pet.

So what do you need to look for when checking out breeders? Here’s a list of things that the very best breeders do to ensure a healthy, happy litter of pups – and why they’re important to YOU.

A great breeder:

  • Genetically tests both the stud and dam before breeding, and gladly shares the results of ALL testing with potential purchasers
  • Researches the full pedigrees of both stud and dam, and does NOT breed if there’s a high probability of health or behavior issues
  • Does not breed a dog before the age of 2 or 3 years – there are many issues that do not show up until adolescence or later
  • Does not breed any dog more than once every 2 or 3 years – it’s far too much stress, physically, on the mother and while rare, studies are starting to show issues with males as well
  • Doesn’t have more than two litters on the ground at any given time – it’s difficult to properly socialize too many puppies at once
  • Encourages you (and your family) to visit your pup at least weekly before the pup goes home with you
  • Doesn’t let the pups leave the dam/litter before the age of 10-12 weeks – research by Scott and Fuller on the developmental stages of puppies proved that, while the period around 7-8 weeks is the best time for a pup to get used to humans, it’s not the best time to leave the litter. Between 7-12 weeks is when a puppy is learning two VERY important things: how to communicate with other dogs and bite inhibition!
  • Follows the “Puppy’s Rule of 12′s”when preparing pups for their new homes : http://www.uvhs.org/behavioral_docs/the_puppys_rules_of_twelve.pdf
  • Insists on contract with the following conditions: spay/neuter on pet quality or prior breeding approval for show/field/work quality; pup/dog’s return to breeder if, at ANY time in the dog’s life, you can no longer care for it; health guarantee (usually part of return clause)
  • Offers lifetime guidance and support for as long as you own the dog
  • Is a member and follows the Code of Ethics of the parent (main) breed club
  • Registers the litters with the AKC, CKC (Canadian, NOT Continental!) or UKC (United, NOT Universal!), WCAC or ARBA as well as major Health Registries (eyes, hips, etc)
  • Shows, trials, or otherwise titles their dogs (this shows an investment in bettering the breed)
  • Asks YOU for references, including a veterinarian
  • Finds out as much about you, your family, your living situation and your intentions for the pup as possible – will NOT sell to ‘just anyone’
  • NEVER sells their pups to a pet store or outlet

Wait – you aren’t done yet! There are some very important things to check when you go to visit the puppies:

  • Are the puppies kept indoors with the family, or out in a kennel, garage or shed?
  • Ask to see where the pups are kept – is it clean and comfortable, with appropriate (and enough!) toys for the pups? If their area is littered with urine/feces, you may be facing problems with parasites or worse; as well, you don’t want them to be housed in stacked crates, for the same reason
  • Meet the Parents! If possible, meet both, but definitely ask to meet Mom. A LOT of behavior issues are passed from the mother’s side – both genetically AND emotionally. Is Mom calm, and friendly? Is she well-cared for, with healthy-looking fur, eyes, skin and teeth?
  • Are the adults indoor or outdoor dogs? Ask to see their living area, if outdoors, and check for cleanliness, temperament, etc.

Seems like a lot to look for, doesn’t it? Maybe not, when you think how important this new addition will become to your family!

One final note:

While these new ‘designer breeds’ are wicked cute, and have really cute names, too – they aren’t necessarily any healthier than a very carefully bred pure-breed dog, or for that matter, any random-bred dog, either. And, they aren’t REALLY a breed – they are TWO breeds that someone decided to ‘mix’ in order to sell. As such, their genetic health is as uncertain as any mixed-breed dog you can find at your local shelter – probably more so, because they only exist for the ‘quick buck’. So, before you shell out thousands of dollars for the latest ‘designer dog’, remember this: the same mix is probably languishing in a shelter somewhere, and will be put down if no one adopts it. Wouldn’t you rather save a life (as well as a thousand dollars)?

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Dog Heaven in the White Mountains

Published by in Articles and Stories on January 1st, 2008 | Comments Off

When Belinda Phillips bought a 18th century farmhouse and attached barn in the White Mountains of New Hampshire, she renovated it to suit her life’s interests: practicing and teaching yoga, hiking and cross country skiing, gardening, and spending time with her family, friends, and pets in a space large enough to accommodate all of them.

And because Belinda loves the beauty of her surroundings and wants to share it with others, she has recently decided to rent some of her space to visitors to the White Mountain region.

Best of all, her place is dog friendly. With large fenced in front and back yards, hiking trail steps away, a relaxed atmosphere, and the beauty of the mountains as a backdrop, this is the perfect place for weekend getaway with the dog(s).

Belinda met us at her space in Thornton, NH, just outside of Campton, on a Friday afternoon with her two mini-Aussies in tow. As our two dogs became acquainted with hers, Belinda gave us a tour of her home. Visitors enter from the ground level and take a stairway to the main floor. Light pours into this serene area from a wall of windows. On the day we arrived, gentle meditative music played in the background, and a subtle fresh herbal scent filled the space. The rough-hewn beams of the original barn structure have been retained and serve functional and aesthetic purposes everywhere. The rich dark wood of the beams adds a lovely contrast to the soft yellows and greens of the main floor, which houses her yoga studio (Yoga for Everyone!) as well as a small functional kitchen space, a wood burning stove, and a large full bath.

Dogs in HeavenTo use the vast space of the barn effectively, Belinda designed loft like areas for her living room, bedrooms, and additional bath. A stairway leads to the loft space—no need to use the decorative ladder that visually links the bottom and upper levels. Here, a sweet nook of a space with a wraparound couch, a low bench, and a TV offer a place to hang out. You can look out from this area to the floor below; the metal horizontal rails provide safety but do not obstruct the feeling of openness and add a contemporary feel to the design. Touches of comfort abound: quilts hang over the rails, pieces of pottery and ceramics are placed in strategic spots. However, this is not a cluttered place filled with bric a brac: you get the feeling everything is chosen carefully for comfort and serenity.

The guest room Belinda rents is small but cozy, with one queen bed, a dresser, and a small closet. Her taste in bed linens is exquisite! I have to admit having grown up with bad quality sheets I have become somewhat of a thread count snob, and these sheets and duvet were heavenly. Guests have the use of the full guest bath on the first floor and are welcome to use the TV area and the kitchen.

Dogs (and people) can step out from the kitchen area to a large deck with a ramp for greater access. Since the quarter-acre yard, graced with an old crabapple tree, is fenced in, dogs can romp with glee. We saw it happen! The front yard is fenced in too. Our pets were so happy sniffing new smells and playing they weren’t even scratching at the door to come in every five minutes like they do at home.

On the first day of our visit, Belinda offered to take us for a hike with all the dogs. We agreed happily and followed our host by car a few miles away to a state groomed trail system. It was glorious—the trail we chose followed the path of a large creek that alternately displayed waterfalls, serene pools, and lively eddies. It was great fun to watch the dogs running ahead and back, playing with each other, dipping into the creek, and generally having a blast. We knew they’d have a contented sleep that night. (They did).

Belinda pointed out trails suitable for cross-country skiing, one of her passions, and noted others that were wide and smooth enough for mountain bikers. We enjoyed the hike so much we did it again the next day, stretching it out to stop here and there along the riverside to take it all in. Belinda pointed out another trail steps from her home, where there is also a small pond that looked perfect for ice-skating in the deeper winter.

Eating, Drinking, Looking Around

There are quite a few choices for eating out within a three or four mile range of Thornton. We chose a nearby spot in Campton recommended by Belinda called the Mad River Tavern. Our meals were fine, especially the real mashed potatoes and butternut squash as side dishes and the crispy baguettes. For breakfast, we visited the Mad River Roastery, a local coffee shop that roasts it own beans and offers breakfast sandwiches and pastries. A nearby market has all the necessities if you choose to cook yourself.

One of the location markers near Belinda’s place is Artistic Roots, a local artist coop. We visited here and chatted with another dog friendly woman behind the counter. The coop supports local artists using a variety of media: weaving, glass, jewelry, pottery, photography, and quite a few of the recycling crafts. I made good use of the time by picking up a few holiday gifts for my sister and supporting the local economy.

If you are looking to get out of town for a night or two with or without your dog, I highly recommend Belinda’s place. Her place is gay and lesbian friendly, and singles are also very welcome. If you plan well, you can take a yoga class, too!

Guest Room Rates
$60.00 per night with one dog
$10.00 for each additional dog.
$650.00 per week.

Whole Barn Space
$200.00 per night with one dog
Limit of 3 dogs and 4 people
$800.00 per week.

To book space or to inquire further, contact Belinda Phillips at <yoga4ever@verizon.net>

– by Lena Burgio (DogBoston writer)

Tell us your favorite dog place

Write a story or just send the name of your favorite dog place to brian@dogboston.com!



Dog Humor

Published by in Articles and Stories on January 1st, 2008 | Comments Off

10 Reasons Why It’s Great to be a Dog

  1. If it itches, you can reach it. And no matter where it itches, no one will be offended if you scratch it in public.
  2. No one notices if you have hair growing in weird places as you get older.
  3. Personal hygiene is a blast: No one expects you to take a bath every day, and you don’t even have to comb your own hair.
  4. Having a wet nose is considered a sign of good health.
  5. No one thinks less of you for passing gas. Some people might actually think you’re cute.
  6. Who needs a big home entertainment system? A bone or an old shoe can entertain you for hours.
  7. You can spend hours just smelling stuff.
  8. No one ever expects you to pay for lunch or dinner. You never have to worry about table manners, and if you gain weight, it’s someone else’s fault.
  9. It doesn’t take much to make you happy. You’re always excited to see the same old people. All they have to do is leave the room for five minutes and come back.
  10. Every garbage can looks like a cold buffet to you.

Beware of Dog

Upon entering a store off Newbury Street, a stranger noticed a sign saying DANGER! BEWARE OF DOG! posted on the glass door. Inside a harmless old hound dog was asleep on the floor besides the cash register.

He asked the store manager, “Is that the dog folks are supposed to beware of?”

“Yep, that’s him,” he replied.

The amused stranger inquired, “That certainly doesn’t look like a dangerous dog to me. Why in the world would you post that sign?”

The owner responded, “Because, before I posted that sign, people kept tripping over him.”

Parking Meters

A dog saw somebody putting money into a parking meter and reported to the other dogs, “They’re putting in pay toilets!”

Designer Dog Breeds

Collie + Lhasa Apso
Collapso, a dog that folds up for easy transport

Bloodhound + Labrador
Blabador, a dog that barks a lot

Spitz + Chow Chow
Spitz-Chow, a dog that throws up a lot

Pointer + Setter
Poinsetter, a traditional Christmas pet

Pekinese + Lhasa Apso
Peekasso, an abstract dog

Labrador Retriever + Curly Coated Retriever
Lab Coat Retriever, the choice of research scientists

Terrier + Bulldog
Terribull, a dog that makes awful mistakes

Irish Water Spaniel + English Springer Spaniel
Irish Springer, a dog that’s fresh and clean as a whistle

Deerhound + Terrier
Derriere, a dog that’s true to the end

Malamute + Pointer
Moot Point, a dog that…. oh, well, it doesn’t matter anyway

Bull Terrier + Shih Tzu
Oh, never mind….

(Credit to Liz Fekete for the email!)

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How to Start Your Own Dog Park

Published by in Articles and Stories on January 1st, 2008 | Comments Off

Question: I know of a place that I go to that is not really an off leash park, but a few of us know about it, and well I figure I don’t want to ruin a good thing by making a big deal about it. However, if I want to get involved with my city (Watertown in this case) and make the park a legal offleash park, what are the steps involved?? (submitted by Melissa from Watertown)

Answer 1 from Michele (SomDog.com):

Congratulations on your efforts to turn a space in your community where people with dogs get together into an official off-leash recreational area!

Many dog owners are content to “fly below the radar.” As long as we do not have legal spaces for off-leash recreation in our communities, we are scofflaws for socializing and exercising our dogs off-leash in our parks.

For the safety and enjoyment of all park users, we must plan and administer public open space with adequate options for off leash recreation, appropriate signage about applicable leash laws and pooper-scooper laws, and, where ever possible, facilities for pet-waste management.

Different municipalities have different laws about dogs off-leash in public open space. In Somerville, we had to get the municipal ordinances amended to provide for designated off-leash recreational areas. Until spring 2005, the local ordinances required that dogs be on leash in public open space.

Also the process will depend on the authority that is responsible for the oversight of a particular park. For example, in Somerville, 60% of our public open space (five parks) is under the jurisdiction of the Massachusetts Department of Conservation and Recreation.

How do you begin the process of working within your community and with your elected officials for legal options for off-leash recreation?

1) Get the support of as many members of the community as possible, not just dog owners (though certainly you need the buy-in of dog owners in your community).

2) Get your elected representatives to commit their support for open spaces that serve the many and diverse recreational needs of all park users. Off-leash recreational areas are not for dogs; they are for people!

3) Find out who has jurisdiction over prospective sites for off-leash recreation.

4) Get your constituents to get your elected representatives to get the authority/-ies with jurisdiction to take appropriate action so that your open spaces serve everyone in your community!

The off-leash recreation bibliography on the Somerville Dog Owners Group’s website has recently been updated.

Answer 2 from Helen (CambridgeDog.com):

Great idea! Michele’s comments are quite thorough, but I can add some more suggestions for getting this off the ground.

1. In looking at the Watertown website, I found this pamphlet from the Health Department stating local policies regarding dogs. http://www.ci.watertown.ma.us/DocumentView.asp?DID=319
This is quite restrictive and does not allow for off-leash dogs anywhere other than on (your own) private property. I’d think that an emailed letter to the Health Department with copies to the town Councillors and the town Manager requesting that they re-examine this policy would be key. Without an opening in the regulations for the possibility of off-leash spaces, you’re in trouble. I’d also encourage other dog owners and dog-friendly people in town to write as well. Once there are several emails, you’ll find that town government starts to take notice.

2. There’s a meeting this Saturday to discuss parkland in Watertown. I’d attend so that you can speak on behalf of dog owners and/or meet the Watertown employees and elected officials there. Any group meeting to discuss park spaces would be a good starting place for you to get “the lay of the land”. Here’s a link to the meeting: http://www.ci.watertown.ma.us/index.asp?NID=540

3. Do some sleuthing on the town website- there’s an Open Space and Recreation Plan, which isn’t on the site in full but will be worth looking up (presumably at City Hall). The planning committee is listed at http://www.ci.watertown.ma.us/index.asp?nid=282 and their stated goal is:

“…to identify Watertown’s open space and recreational resources and to produce a consistent policy directive for town agencies, in order to ensure that these resources are not lost due to the pressures of development or uncoordinated individual actions that affect the town’s open space and recreational system…”

4. Consider talking with Watertown Animal Control. Our AC officers in Cambridge are very supportive of the idea of creating more dog parks and have been very helpful. Most AC officers have chosen that career because they love animals. Note: make sure your dog is properly licensed before you start the conversation! Part of their job is to enforce licensing regulations.

5. When you’re at the local de-facto park with your dog, speak with the other dog owners and try to get them to work with you to legalize the space. The battle is much easier when you’re not alone. Get them to email the Town Councillors, City Manager, etc.

I’d also recommend starting a petition to prove how much support the idea has. Make sure that only Watertown residents sign it (as nice as it is to have support from non-residents, it doesn’t mean anything to town government). Also ask them to check a box saying whether they’re willing to be kept up to date about your progress- that way you can start a mailing list or email distribution list.

6. If you want to get a Watertown Dog Owners’ Group started, talk with representatives from other local DOGs, such as Cambridge (my group) and Somerville (Michele’s). We’ve been able to get dedicated fenced dog parks in our cities and continue to work for more, as well as shared use options.

What you’re asking for is not only totally reasonable, but your taxes pay to maintain those green spaces all over your town and your desire to use them for a form of recreation that is legal in towns all over the U.S. is completely legitimate. Dogs who are sufficiently exercised and well socialized to other dogs and people are less likely to bite and better behaved. So hang in there and stay strong- you’re poised to do something really important!

Best of luck!

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