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Invisible Fences – Good or Bad?

Invisible Fences – Good or Bad? | Jo Jacques

We have several small dogs, they are used to fencing in our large, great yard. We will soon be moving to a new place, same town, but will want to be investigating Invisible Fencing.

Our dog is not with a puppy but 4 years old, so we are curious how older dogs can adapt to this. How long does it take for the dogs to become familiar, and how trustworthy is it.
Any info you have is useful as we do our research to consider this. Our dogs have had free run of their large fenced yard.

thanks,
Invisible Reader of DogBoston

Hi Invisible,
You have hit on a subject I’ve done a LOT of research on, as I’ve had many clients who’ve used these.

It is very popular right now, especially with the large subdivisions that have gone up — mostly because it’s relatively inexpensive. While it does have its good points — it doesn’t detract from your property, it’s inexpensive for large areas, and you don’t need to take your dog out on a leash.

But, the bad points FAR outweigh the good with these devices, I’m afraid.

Let’s look at the physical aspects first:

1) they don’t stop anything from coming INTO your yard to take or hurt your dogs.
2) they are susceptible to damage from electrical storms.
3) the collar units have a very high rate of malfunction, especially in this area of the country — malfunctions that can (and have) caused the collars to shock (yes, shock — these are SHOCK devices, remember) their dog repeatedly, causing physical (and emotional) damage to the dog.

That leads us into the behavioral problems with Invisible Fencing (IF) — an area that I see a LOT. Small dogs, especially, seem to have more issues, due to the fragile nature of their neurological systems — sometimes, the neurological damage is lasting to these little guys.

1) Since dogs take the entire environment into consideration when learning, they really don’t know where the pain is coming from so they see what’s around them. If joggers run past, or you have children in the yard, or if YOU’RE in the yard when they receive a shock, they are very likely to redirect to that stimulus and develop deep-seated fear responses that are incredibly difficult to remove. Even if no one is outside, I’ve worked with dogs that refuse to go out in their back yards to eliminate after receiving a shock.

2) You never know just how much shock the dog is getting at any given time. Not to mention, dogs — like people — are all different, and have different pain thresholds. The more sensitive a dog is to the shock, the more likely the dog is to develop redirected pain aggression — there are quite a few lawsuits (the IF folks don’t like to tell you about those) regarding previously wonderful family pets (like goldens) attacking the family’s kids when outdoors with the fencing. And, you can’t tell how sensitive your dog is before you use the collar, or even while you are using it in most cases — dogs, as a species, do not show pain as we think they would. In the wild, an animal showing pain is usually attacked as being weak.

3) When it comes to training with the fence, most dogs very first experience being leash-walked by a stranger is when the installer puts the leash on and takes your dog out for training. Research has shown that this training can have a serious lasting effect on a dog — a huge percentage of these dogs develop an intense fear of strangers while on leash, culminating in aggression issues, requiring hours upon hours of remediation and in a lot of cases, medication to keep the dog from attacking others while on walks. You end up with a HUGE emotional and legal liability.

There is plenty of scientific and legal research out there showing the dangers of these fences. As well, many well-known veterinary behaviorists, such as Dr. Karen Overall and Dr. Ian Dunbar, have come out against their use. These devices are banned in many countries as being inhumane; many feel they will be banned here, too. I, for one, won’t be upset if they are.

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Top Ten Dog Training Books

from Jo Jacques

Ever want to know what pro dog trainers read? How about knowing the best of what they read… The absolute BEST?

Here is the cream of the crop, what’s on every GOOD professional trainer’s bookshelf:

The Power of Positive Dog Training by Pat Miller
Clicker Training for Obedience by Morgan Spector
Family Friendly Dog Training by Dr, Patricia McConnell
The Dog Whisperer By PAUL OWENS (NOT Millan!!)
Positive Puppy Training Works! by Lt. Joel Walton
The Complete Idiots Guide to Positive Dog Training by Pamela Dennison
How to Teach a New Dog Old Tricks by Dr. Ian Dunbar
Outwitting Dogs by Terry Ryan
How to Behave so Your Dog Behaves by Dr. Sophia Yin
Don’t Shoot the Dog! by Karen Pryor
How Dogs Learn by Mary Burch and Jon Bailey
The Other End of the Leash by Dr. Patricia McConnell
EXCEL-erated Learning by Dr. Pamela Reid

As well, if you REALLY want to learn about canine cognition and learning, there’s Stephen Lindsey’s 3 volume set on Applied Behavior and Training (at a cost of 300-400 for the three), Domjan’s Principles of Learning and Behavior, Schwartz/Wasserman/Robbins’ Psychology of Learning and Behavior, and Sidman’s Coercion and it’s Fallout.



Best Anti-Lyme Disease Medicine?

Published by in Articles and Stories on February 29th, 2008 | Comments Off

Jo, I just moved to the North shore and I am concerned about ticks & Lyme disease. As per my vet, Frontline & Lyme vaccine is the best option. Would you agree? Are there better options?

Lyme Disease Stats

Hi,

That all depends, and mostly it depends on your dog’s immune system — it can do more harm than good in certain cases.

We DO line in a high-Lyme area (there’s a couple more tick-borne diseases as well). HOWEVER — there can be issues with the Lyme vaccine (as well as some others). You may want to research it a bit first, you can start here: http://www.itsfortheanimals.com/DODDS-CHG-VACC-PROTOCOLS.HTM

Did you move from a non-lyme tick area? If so, you may want to have the first round of Lyme vaccines then titer afterwards.

Frontline can be effective at keeping away ticks/cleas (believe it or not, the regular Frontline, NOT the Plus, is MORE effective). Again, depending on your own dog’s immune system, sometimes it can do more harm than good.

Do you feed a commercial food or home-prepare, or a combination? If you home-prepare or feed a combo, you can also add a bit of garlic powder (NOT garlic salt) and some rosemary to your dog’s food as you prepare it — this will help repel fleas and ticks quite well (in 5 years, we’ve had no fleas and only one tick for all 3 of our dogs). There are also quite a few natural recipes (herbs, essential oils, etc) that you can mix up and spray on your dog (and you!) to repel the little buggers.

No matter what you decide to do, remember to do DAILY, if not twice-daily, checks for Ticks and remove them quickly. If you remove them within the first 24 hours, you won’t have any issues with Lyme — after that, your chances will increase.

Jo Jacques CPDT, CPCT
WiggleBums! Dog-Friendly Training & Behavior
www.wigglebums.com

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Dogs and Babies?

Published by in Articles and Stories on January 31st, 2008 | Comments Off

Jo, We are having a baby and we are concerned about how our dogs (two beagles, one is 4, the other is 6) will act when the baby comes home. any thoughts on that? this has me losing sleep …. Amy, JP

Hi Amy!
Congratulations — both on your impending new arrival and your comittment to your dogs! Try not to lose too much sleep — you’ll be losing enough once the baby arrives!

One of my best friends and colleagues is an expert on babies and dogs, and she says that preparation is KEY to a successful homecoming and bonding experience — here are a few tips:

  1. Review and practice obedience commands like sit, down and stay from various positions (in case you are playing on the floor with the baby)
  2. Really work on socializing your dogs around babies and children, but look carefully for signs of stress
  3. Start living by a ‘baby schedule’
  4. Get the dogs comfortable around the baby furniture and teach them the behaviors you would like to see around the stroller, crib, swing, etc.
  5. Get some baby lotion and put some on the baby’s equipment, toys, etc — then put the same lotion on the baby before you bring it home.
  6. Have Dad bring home a blanket with the baby’s smell on it before you come home from the hospital.

For more great information, please visit my friend’s website: http://familypaws.com/dogsandstorks/

- Jo

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The Perfect Dog for College Students?

Jo, my name is Andrea and I just started going to college here in Boston last fall. With the warm weather coming up, I was wondering about your advice on getting a dog. I would prefer a smaller, low-shedding breed that doesn’t bark (I live with roommates) and doesn’t need too much exercise (I am very busy). What are your thoughts?

Hi, and welcome to Boston!
College is a very exciting and very busy time, and it can be fun to share it with a dog. From what you’ve said, though, it might not be the best time for you.

Dogs have evolved along side of humans, and are very social animals (just like people!). They don’t like to be alone for long periods of time, and can become destructive when bored or lonely — the busier you are, the more destructive your dog may become.

Getting a dog is a lot like having a baby — your life will change drastically, and with your course load and busy life, you may not have enough time walk, train, and socialize a pup. Pets are a great stress reliever, though — have you though about other options, such as a cat or a house rabbit? Both are affectionate, easily litter trained, and wont’ get upset if you keep long hours.

- Jo



A Non-Barking Low Maintenance Apartment Dog?

Jo: I’ve got my first apartment and my landlord allows pets both cats and dogs. My problem is that I can’t figure out the best breed for me. This is my situation, my apartment is pretty decent size and has a large front and back yard (no fence.) It’s located in a rural area and is on the top floor of my building. I’m a fairly active person, if I have a dog I can take for walks or a dog to just sit in my lap I’m pretty impartial. I would like a dog I can take places with me. I am also gone for 9 hours a day from 2 – 11. So I need a dog who is a minimal barker, can be unsupervised without tearing apart my apartment and who won’t feel couped up during the day. Maybe a breed that does well with cats so they can entertain each other while I’m at work. Can anyone make a recommendation on the breed of dog that may be best for me? I have no allergies, live alone with no children and want a dog around 24/7. Thanks so much!

Hi, Josh,

Well, it’s good that you posted such honest info about your lifestyle. I’m assuming that you would be looking to adopt an adult dog, not a pup? Would you be able to take time off of work or work a flexible schedule for a bit in order to properly socialize and train your dog?

Due to evolutionary behavioral and health factors, dog breeds are not all that okay with being alone for 9 hours a day. They are VERY social creatures, and they are a pack animal — happiest when when someone or another animal. Some dogs can adapt, but usually dogs that have been slowly acclimated to that length of time alone.

As well, there are no ‘breeds’ that are minimal barkers or less likely to be destructive. Both of those behaviors are traits that happen when a dog is under-exercised and/or under-socialized. The best dog in the world — who has never barked or chewed anything — can have days when it does both non-stop due to boredom, too little exercise and lonlieness. As well, there is no dog breed that ‘naturally’ does well with cats — successful multi-species households happen through the work of owners who carefully introduce and contition their pets to get along — and sometimes, even that doesn’t work.

If you’d really like a dog, might I suggest a Maine Coon Cat? They are large and VERY dog-like, while still retaining the self-sufficience that cats natually possess and dogs lack. Affectionate, clean, highly trainable, and remarkably low maintenance (their coat, although it looks like it might tangle a lot, remains fairly tangle-free because it’s staggered).

- Jo



Problem Walking Two Dogs Separately

Published by in Articles and Stories on January 6th, 2008 | Comments Off

Hi Jo,
I live in the city and have two big, generally well behaved, male dogs. I used to take long walks with them together every day until the younger one hit puberty. If they see another male, they naturally want to fight and are emboldened because they are in a “pack”. I have no problem pulling one male out of a fight, but two is a real juggling act.

I started to walk them separately, but this is almost as difficult as a dog fight! Neither one likes being left alone, and they make a very big deal out of it. Now the youngest has figured out that he can turn a doorknob with his teeth, so closing one in a room while the other is leashed up is not an option anymore.

I have just been letting them out into the back yard and not walking them very much anymore as a result. I feel guilty about it though, since I can see that they get bored, and know that they could really use more exercise.

I’d like for the one to behave and quietly wait his turn while I take the other one out. I am starting to feel like this is an impossible dream though. I sure would appreciate any good advice you have to offer as to how I can condition them to do this. Like I say, they are mostly well behaved, so I know that feeling left out must be very difficult for them :(
Kristal

Hi Kristal,

I’m a BIG believer in one-on-one quality time with each of my dogs — and it’s something I started when they were younger. I got them into the habit by training various behaviors with one dog at a time, when the others were either on the other side of the door or in a crate.

You can do the same thing now, and work your way toward the single dog walks.

Start slowly. Tether the dogs on opposite sides of the room and take turns working on behaviors with each in turn. If one gets all crazy, don’t start working with him until he’s quiet — this will reward the quiet behavior while waiting for you.

When they have no problem waiting while you work with the other one, try taking one in the other room to work for a few minutes while the other is tethered safely. Work only for a minute or so, then come back to reward the one left behind… then switch off. Slowly make the time that you are working with one or the other longer and longer. When they’re fine at working in this way, then take one outside the door, work for a minute or two then reward the one left behind, as above.When you get to the part where you take one dog outside, give the remaining dog a cookie or chewie when you leave with the other.

Depending on your dogs and how often you practice, you may find that within a week or two you’re able to take a short walk with each one separately… the first walks should be VERY short, just 5 or 10 minutes, and as before, increase the time very slowly…

Good luck!

Jo Jacques, CPDT, CPCT
WiggleBums!
Dog-Friendly Training and Behavior Consulting

http://www.wigglebums.com

http://www.trulydogfriendly.com

President, International Siberian Husky Club

http://www.casinstitute.com/

Ask Jo at dogBoston.com
IAABC# 023
APDT# 064427
IIACAB # 024
ABMA # 221012

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How to Welcome a New Puppy

Published by in Articles and Stories on January 4th, 2008 | Comments Off

Jo, we’re picking up a puppy this weekend!! :) , and we were looking for a listing of tips and items that we should buy before bringing him home.

Jo:

Congratulations!

Great things to have: a crate and crate pad; a kong and other safe chew toys like nylabones; a good healthy dog food and healthy training treats; a flat buckle collar and regular leash; an enzyme-removing cleaner like Nature’s Miracle or Foster/Smith Stain-away; food and water bowls (stainless steel is easiest to clean and safe — plastic can leach into food/water and cause allergic reactions and ceramic can break).

If this is your first puppy, or even the first puppy you’ve had in a long time, pick up a copy of The Urban Puppy Toolkit — one of the absolute BEST kits for new puppy owners I’ve ever seen! you can get one here, if the pet stores in your area doesn’t carry it:

http://www.petexpertise.com/WiggleBums

Another great book is Dr. Ian Dunbar’s Before You Get Your Puppy, which he has now made available for FREE on his Sirius training website: http://www.siriuspup.com/beforebook.html

More “Ask Jo” articles

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How Much Exercise is Enough?

Published by in Articles and Stories on January 2nd, 2008 | Comments Off

Exercise and Your Dog: How Much is Enough

The modern rally of ‘a tired dog is a good dog’ has been taken up by nearly everyone who has or works with dogs. However, excessive or inappropriate exercise could harm your dog, physically and/or mentally. In recent years, area vets have begun experiencing a large increase in ACL/PCL injuries among their clients – an injury that isn’t a normal occurrence in most dogs. After surgery (always required in a full tear), recovery is slow and arduous, and many dogs develop painful arthritis in the affected knee. As these injuries are happening more frequently in pet dogs (rather than canine athletes), vets believe this increase may be due to inappropriate forms of exercise and improper conditioning of these dogs.

What kind of exercise is inappropriate for a dog? That depends on the breed of dog, its current level of physical conditioning, the weather/climate, and of course, the dog itself. For example, most Basset Hounds do NOT make great running partners, in ANY weather <VBG>! Yet, even a Nordic breed, developed for pulling a sled long distances, can be injured by running on concrete sidewalks (paw pad injuries), or even dirt/sand (joints injuries and heat exhaustion/dehydration) during our inconsistent New England weather if an owner doesn’t take the right precautions. Just like humans, dogs need careful conditioning when beginning a physical exercise program. However, a human can respond appropriately when they feel themselves ‘overdoing’ it – dogs depend on us to keep them safe and healthy during exercise, and we don’t always notice the subtle signals of physical stress in a dog.

Certain breeds need a good amount of physical exercise in order to be healthy – sporting breeds, such as Retrievers, benefit greatly from 2-3 hours daily of running and swimming. Hounds, while they may not need as intense physical activity, require ‘nose work’ as part of their exercise plan – an hour or two a day of physical walking plus nose work will go a long way in keeping a hound happy and behaviorally healthy. Among the toughest dogs to ‘tire’ are the working breeds – dogs that were bred to do a physically and mentally demanding job independently – these are the guarding breeds (Belgian Shepherds, Pyrenees, etc.), sled dogs (Siberians, Malamutes, Samoyed, etc.) and herding breeds (Australian Cattle Dogs and Shepherds, Border Collies, etc.). These groups demand mental exercise in amounts that equal or surpass their physical exercise needs – needless to say, unless an owner is prepared to give them enough stimulation, it can be tough to keep these dogs in a city situation.

How can you tell what kind of exercise is appropriate for your dog? Start by talking to the parent club for your specific breed to find out what kinds of activities are appropriate. Next, take your dog to the vet for a physical evaluation to make sure he’ll be able to take part in the exercise you’ve chosen. If your dog has hip dysplasia or other physical problem that limits his ability to exercise, swimming can be an excellent option for exercise. You can ask your vet to explain the signs of physical stress you need to look for in your dog, or you may want to take a Pet First Aid course. In the New England area, heat exhaustion is a common issue because dogs don’t really have an efficient body-cooling system. Puppies and older dogs have worse temperature regulating abilities than healthy adult dogs, and dogs with shorter faces have impaired heat tolerance, as do black dogs and long-haired breeds. Generally, the top temperature for exercising a dog is about 85° F. However, if the dog is young, old, black, long-haired, short-muzzled, or not in perfect health, 85° F could be too hot. This is especially true when the humidity is high, so plan your exercise carefully in order to ensure your dog’s safety. Once you’ve decided on the type of exercise and when you’ll be engaging in it, you’ll need to build your dog up gradually, just as if you were starting a new program yourself. Remember, though, that puppies who are still growing shouldn’t engage in any exercise or activity during which they have to keep moving for long periods of time – the best exercise for a growing pup is playing with other puppies or people, with frequent rest periods. Plus, this type of play has the added bonus of exercising the pup’s brain, too.

Danish researcher and trainer Mogens Eliasen recently stated in his book, BrainWork for Smart Dogs (note: the term ‘smart’ doesn’t mean a dog needs to be smart to do his ‘brainwork’, but that your dog will become smarter as a result of it) that while most people understand that a dog needs exercise, few comprehend that physical exercise by itself doesn’t always calm a dog down – in fact, it can cause what he terms a ‘build-up of mental energy’, resulting in just as many nuisance behaviors as a lack of physical exercise. People who train dogs to do complex behaviors such as those required by assistance tasks have noted how ‘tired’ the dogs seem after even a short training session.

So, does this mean you can get by with ‘mental exercise’ and forgo physical exercise entirely? NO – it means that a dog needs BOTH to be physically and emotionally healthy. When it comes to physical exercise, your dog will benefit greatly from at least two walks daily, of between 45 minutes-2 hours at a time, on or off leash (in a safe area). But the GOOD news for city-dwellers is that when the weather is bad and you can’t get out, you can STILL give your dog quality exercise that will help condition both his body and his brain.

How? Well, you can start with fetch and retrieve, if your dog enjoys this game (many retrievers will play for hours), but retrieve by itself is a physical-energy burner only. A better choice is ‘Find It!’ with a toy or other object – this will get your dog’s brain working, and kick in some of his natural prey instincts in the bargain. A great physical energy burner is ‘Tug of War’. No, it doesn’t make dogs more aggressive – just the opposite, in fact. Tug games, when played using easily-understandable, consistent rules, are a huge energy burner and also serve to increase the human-dog bond. What kind of rules? You should always use a designated ‘tug toy’, first of all, and your dog should know the ‘drop’ or ‘give’ cue, as well as a ‘take’ cue. ‘Take’ will be used as an invitation to play tug. If you see the dog becoming too aroused by tug, take an ‘obedience’ break – give a happy verbal announcement such as “Break-time!” and run your dog through a few of his known behaviors, such as sit, down, paw,etc. Then continue playing Tug (which becomes the ‘reward’ for performing his obedience tasks).

Another physical and mental game that dogs enjoy immensely is ‘Hide and Seek’ – this game is also a great way to work on recall skills. Place your dog in sit or down, give a ‘wait’ cue then leave the room and hide. Now, call your dog in a really excited way, so that he can come and find you. If you want, you can also give him a treat when he finds you, but most dogs are ecstatically happy to find you for praise and affection rewards, as well.

Trick training, using shaping methods really works to burn mental energy. Train your dog to ‘touch’ objects that you point to using his nose or his paw – begin by rewarding him for touching his nose to your hand, then adding the cue ‘nose’ or ‘touch’. Then, use that behavior as a stepping stone to other tricks such as closing doors, picking up toys or laundry, bringing you a magazine or newspaper, and ringing a bell. A great starter game that is used by new clicker trainers is ’101 Things to Do With a Box’: (http://www.clickertraining.com/training/clicker_basics/index.htm?loaditem=101_w_a_box&itemnumber=8 ). This game encourages your dog to try new things when previous behaviors aren’t working – a great way to get your dog thinking!

You don’t need to have an ‘organized’ activity in order to get appropriate exercise for your dog – there are plenty of ways to keep him mentally and physically healthy. But, no matter how you choose to exercise your dog, remember to do so safely and in a way that will be fun for BOTH of you.



8 Tips for Successful House Training

Published by in Articles and Stories on January 2nd, 2008 | Comments Off

Help! My Dog Can’t Be House Trained! (or 8 Tips for Successful House-training)

copyright © 2007 Jo Jacques

As a behavior counselor and trainer, one of the most often heard complaints from pet owners concerns house-training. The stories I hear of the suggestions clients have gotten from others are sometimes amazing:

“The vet told me that my [insert breed name] is impossible to house-train, so I don’t expect it to happen.”

“My neighbor told me that if I keep the dog in the crate all the time, it won’t eliminate in the crate, but he still does!”

My favorite one: “He’s 5 months old now – he can last the whole day, right?” (WRONG!).

Depending on the age and physiology of a particular pup, house-training any breed can be accomplished within a week or two, barring any physical problems or behavioral issues stemming from previous training (it takes far more time to ‘un-train’ and then build new habits than to start from scratch!). However, both time and effort are needed in order to accomplish this, as well as an understanding of what an individual puppy/dog is capable of physically.

Owner understanding and compliance has a HUGE effect on the elimination habits their puppy/dog develops! For example, I always recommend that owners take at least a week – if not two – off from work (or work from home, if possible) when they bring their pup home in order to house-train and start bonding with their pup. This time also helps you to learn your pup’s individual personality and needs – both physically and emotionally.

The following are 8 tips for Successful House-training – barring retraining or physical issues, if these tips are followed you will have no problem house-training nearly any dog.

Develop a routine schedule for feeding and potty breaks – and stick to it, even on weekends and at night. Feeding on a regular schedule helps to regulate your dog’s system – and makes it easier for you to know when to take him out for a potty break, as well. Dogs, like children, just LOVE schedules!
Feed a high-quality food consistently – don’t change food intermittently. A high-quality diet usually means fewer and firmer bowel movements; less salt and preservatives in their food cuts down on water intake and urination.
Take the pup out on a leash for a potty break whenever he wakes up, after he eats or drinks, and after he’s been playing. As well, pups should be taken out once an hour, an older dog every two hours until he’s trained. Even if he doesn’t eliminate every time you take him out, try to stick to your schedule. Soon, you’ll be able to predict when he’ll need to go. As he gets older, you’ll be able to lengthen the time between breaks.
If you can’t watch him, use a crate or an X-pen. Or, tether him to your belt using a leash so that you’ll always know where he is and can feel when he starts to move away from you. Remember – puppies have very little bladders, and just as little control over them, so they shouldn’t be confined for more than a few hours at a time after the initial house-training schedule until they’re old enough to handle it. One rule of thumb for puppies is to take their age in months and add 1 – this will be the maximum number of hours he’d be able to hold his bladder. In the toy breeds, due to their smaller bladders and a slower maturation time, don’t add the extra hour. Older dogs have more physical control, and may be able to stay in a crate a little longer without eliminating.
When taking your pup or dog out for a potty break, be sure to reinforce him EVERY time he eliminates outside. Make a HUGE deal out of it – tell him what a wonderful dog he is while giving him lots of affection, petting AND a treat. Soon, he’ll come to associate eliminating outside with fun and treats – not a bad combination for a pup! Remember – any behavior that gets rewarded will get repeated!
When you take the dog out for a potty break, chant a particular phrase or word while waiting for him to eliminate. Have all family members who take him out to use the same phrase and to pace a little with him – movement begets movement! Some people use, “Let’s go!” or “Let’s do it!” in an excited voice. This will enable the pup to connect the phrase used with eliminating, and you’ll soon find him eliminating outside as soon as you say his special phrase.
If you manage to catch him eliminating in the house, interrupt it by picking him up and taking him outside – if he stops in mid-stream and finishes outside, heap on the praise. Be sure that you DO NOT SCOLD HIM or ‘rub his nose’ in it – he will not be able to connect eliminating in the house with the punishment, but he WILL connect punishment for elimination with YOU (if that happens, he may start hiding to eliminate OR will begin eliminating submissively whenever he sees YOU). Then quietly pick up the ‘deposit’ in the house, cleaning it with with an enzymatic cleanser specifically designed for that purpose (my personal favorites, in order of preference, are Foster & Smith’s Stain-Away® or Nature’s Miracle®). However, if you truly feel the need for punishment, take a rolled-up newspaper and hit yourself in the head with it repeatedly, while chanting, “I WILL pay more attention to my dog! I WILL pay more attention to my dog!”
ALWAYS remember to have FUN with your dog! The housebreaking phase won’t last long, but the impression you make on your dog during it will, so here’s your chance to make a positive impact in his life!



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